Brassicas

Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:41 pm

I just got a call from Welter Seed in regards to Groundhog Forage Radishes...across the nation these radishes have exploded in popularity with both livestockmen and by those planting them for deer forage!

AMPAC is the seed grower and their supplies for spring delivery have been exhausted until June so Welters was calling past customers like myself to give us first chance at what seed they had left in stock. I bought the last 23#'s they had and booked 50#'s for June delivery.

Most landowners planting for deer will need seed for July or September plantings so new seed will be available but Welters is encouraging everyone to just call and book your seed. Don't have to pay for it but just get on the list.

Here's the link to Welter Seed' GH seed...which is $2.65 a pound

Welter Seed - GH Radish

They noted that customers have commented that their is a huge difference in GH and conventional oilseed radish in both forage and root develpment.

Another option is the Trophy brand radish available thru Cooper Seed although they are pricey at $6 a pound

Trophy Forage Radish

To my knowledge I know of no one who has planted either Groundhog or Trophy brand forage radishes and had deer refuse to eat them as often happens with other brassicas such as rape and turnips.

Certainly worth trying because of the many benefits both as a whitetail forage and soil improver so get on the list to try some forage radish in 2010...:)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:52 pm

My goal on these forums is to help landowners and managers learn how to grow high yielding forages that are also high in nutritive values while at the same time lowering their inputs by improving soils through a combination of crops and rotations.

We our fortunate to have all kinds of options that if planted properly, provide top quality forage and brassicas are one of those options. In this thread we have shared the use of three short season brassicas that include rape (canola), turnips and forage radish all of which have the potential to attract and feed deer well into late fall or early winter in most states.

Because many landowners are learning and eager to understand why they might wish to include brassicas in their habitat program perhaps we should go back to the beginning and compare the merits of each alone and in combination. Each brassica species has pros and cons and within each species are varieties with different qualities and a number of hybrids.

Which one is right for you? Do you need one, two or three species? Is it necessary to plant multiple varieties? What are each plants soil improving attributes if any?

Here are some thoughts to consider to help you better decide what might be best for you and your program.

The items in the quotes are from this link:

Brassicas for Forage

Rape or canola is usually one of the first brassicas that deer will begin feeding on and seed is reasonable at $1 to 3 a pound. Rape can be used as a cover crop and if plowed under provide green manure but for most hunter/landowners this isn’t the reason we plant it nor a viable option. Rape does not have a long tap root so is generally not capable of breaking up hardpan nor does it have any ability to store nitrogen.

Rape is a short-season leafy brassica whose stems and leaves are ready to harvest (rotationally graze, strip graze or green chop) 90- 120 days after establishment. Plants develop a reddish tinge when ready for harvest. Rangi, Windall, Dwarf Essex, Winfred and Emerald varieties have performed satisfactorily in Penn State University trials. Leave a ten-inch stubble to facilitate rapid regrowth.

Rape leaves and stems have lower protein level (14-17%) than turnips. Rapes can attain yields of 8000 lb/acre dry matter if planted during May or June. Rape can be planted as late as August 1, but with lowered potential yield if planted late. Seed at 3-4 lb/acre rate
.


Please note that yields are substantially reduced if planted after August 1st and rape typically will perform best if optimum levels of NPK are achieved at a planting. Rape is a higher nitrogen user so 60-90#’s per acre will greatly enhance both yield and quality of forage.

Turnips are often the last to be grazed until deer adapt to feeding on the turnip tops although many hybrids such as Appin and Pasja are more palatable and attractive. The positive attribute about turnips is the ability to grow a large bulbous root that deer will feed on long after other crops are gone. This in effect is “stockpiling” a food source that deer can take advantage of even after heavy snows.

Turnips do have a tap root that can extend down several feet but the bulk of the root is a softball sized bulb that often pushes itself out of the ground rather then drilling deeper. This lends itself perfectly to being an easy meal once severe weather kills the tops and in most cases deer will dig thru deep snows to reach this nutritious food source.

Turnips are short-season root brassicas that provide roots, stem and leaf growth for rotational grazing or strip grazing 70 to 90 days after seeding. The leaves can be grazed from mid- September until January depending upon critical low temperatures and snow cover. Top growth generally will survive temperatures between 15-20 degrees F, while bulbs will be about 5 degrees hardier. The common purple top garden type as well as Rondo, Royal Crown and other forage varieties, yield up to 7000 lb/acre of dry matter. The tops have 17-24% crude protein while roots contain 12-15% protein. Some new forage-type turnip varieties such as All Top produce relatively more top dry matter than roots. Turnips are seeded from mid July to mid August at rate of 2-3 lb/acre and produce maximum yields approximately 90 days after seeding


Again one must understand that planting after mid August begins to severely reduce yield and since the main attribute of turnips is root production, late plantings result in little or no root production.

Turnips are also heavy nitrogen users and just as with rape require 60-90#’s of nitrogen along with proper P&K levels or they will be short and stunted and lacking in the kind of protein levels we hope for.

Turnips do have the ability to bring up some subsoil nutrients but limited by their slender tap root and the round root does little to relieve soil compaction problems. Typically turnips would not be considered high on the list of soil improving crops but they can be an essential element as a late winter food source.

Forage radishes have been bred for root growth and forage production versus oilseed production and although they have been around awhile are relatively new to many landowners as a whitetail food source.

FR tops can be upwards of 20% protein and are quite possibly the highest on the palatablity list when it comes to brassicas. They can produce up to 8000#’s per acre of biomass and up to 3700#’s below ground in their root systems. The roots are also very high in protein but because much of it is below ground do not offer the late winter food source potential that turnips do.

FR are fast growing and can be planted from late July to early September and quickly begin to provide attractive forage lasting into early winter. FR like other brassicas also will produce higher yielding better quality forage is 60-90#’s of nitrogen is applied at a planting…depending on planting dates.

FR has some advantages in regards to the shape and size of its leaf in that it is more feathery or serrated rather then broad and flat such as with rape. Planted thick enough it will indeed canopy and smother competition but at lighter rates it lends itself better to being mixed with other brassicas or in fall cereal grain plantings.

Forage radish plants are unique in that their roots can grow 2-4 feet and tap roots as much as 8 feet deep allowing them to pull up subsoil nutrients from deep into the soil. “Drilling for nutrients is somewhat like drilling for oil; it does require some energy to find more energy and while radishes will grow with no added “energy” supplying them with nitrogen allows them to drill deeper into the soil.

The process of drilling or growing this long extended root creates a hole when the root decomposes and when combined in a planting will leave the soil mellow and loose the next spring. This allows the next crop to fully extend its own roots freely to reach water and nutrients rather then having its roots crammed up against a brick wall so to speak.
The root channels allow surface water to flow in and then freezing and thawing moves the soil much like a subsoiler on a tractor only with less energy required per acre.

All of that makes forage radishes very attractive but they have yet another unique attribute that also is lacking in other brassicas. The long tap root is able to capture and store nitrogen and while it does require some N to do the “drilling” it is then able to scavenge as much as 140#’s of nitrogen per acre that will be released the following spring for the next crop via the accumulated N.

All brassicas have allelopathic chemicals that can inhibit many small seeds from germinating but forage radishes are perhaps the strongest of all brassicas in that regard. In addition to reducing weed problems they also release biotoxic compounds that also suppress bacteria, fungi, insects and nematodes that can lower crop yields.

Kale and swedes are long season brassicas that are also attractive and useful in habitat programs but we’ll cover those another time.

Looking at the three aforementioned brassica species one can see that each has notable attributes that can make them very useful in attracting and holding whitetails in fall and early winter.

Each has pros and cons, rape has no root but it’s highly palatable and nutritious leaf makes it a great choice for early to late fall feed. It has few soil improving attributes and is a high nitrogen user.

Turnips are less attractive then rape but the roots make them a necessary component in a habitat program to provide late winter feed. It has some minor soil improving attributes and is also a high nitrogen user.

Forage radish leaves are extremely palatable and highly sought after by whitetails and do have some limited usefulness from the root that extends from the soil surface. It’s soil improving attributes are tremendous and for those with heavy clay soils it has the potential to make huge strides in ones soil and it’s ability to produce higher quality food sources for deer.

Unlike other brassicas forage radish has the added ability to capture and store nitrogen, re-releasing it to the next crop at no more more expense then that applied to rape and turnips.

Each of these three plants could be planted alone or in a mix that includes on or all three at seeding rates that are compatible with soil fertility, applied nutrients and grazing pressure. Some common sense and prudence is necessary and lighter seeding rates usually better then heavy.

Planting any of these brassicas to early will insure that they will mature and go to seed rendering them useless to whitetails and opening up a pandoras box of problems from volunteer plants the following year.

One variety of each is all that is needed but planting multiple varieties is sometimes fun and each has slightly different attributes that can help increase the overall effectiveness of your brassica plot.

Crops like clover, alfalfa and forage soybeans are some of the highest in protein and this is important for lactating does and antler development in bucks so they are usually better choices for spring and summer feed.

Brassicas however can tolerate colder temps and thus become a very important and valuable food source for late fall and early winter. Planting strips or blocks of brassicas, clover and fall cereal grains allows one to rotate crops and by following a tilled under legume such as clover, landowners can significantly reduce nitrogen inputs.

Utilizing nitrogen scavengers like forage radish and winter rye in your rotation allows nitrogen to be captured and used by the next crops while at the same time offering your whitetail herd attractive high quality forage.

If you feel brassicas have a place in your habitat program, look over the attributes of each and then decide which combination might work best for you, your deer and the soils on your land. :)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:44 am

In regards to frost seeding clover into a dead brassica plot...here is an example of the conditions where I feel it will work better then others...

This plot is nothing more then bare dirt

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Deer grazed it hard and heavy from the get go and then finally cleaned every last leaf from the plot

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The roots never had opportunity to grow and what was left they knawed off right to the dirt!

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In this situation the allelopathic chemicals should be minimal at best and I believe that frost seeding will be successful. I will try both white and red clovers (seperately) to see if one or the other works better then others.

If either or both fail I will till the plots and plant berseem or crimson annual clovers and all clovers will be tilled under for a fall rye/pea mix... ;)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:45 am

Many plotters make the mistake of leaving their brassica plot empty the following spring when it could and should be growing a crop that starts feeding deer goes to work building soils and fixing nitrogen for the next crop.

Leaving any plot, field or soil bare and unused is not doing your deer and wildlife and favors and unwise soil stewardship, not to mention costing you money.

I've discussed multiple options in previous posts so I'll try to summarize some of the main options to make it easier for landowners to decide what might work best for them.

The following options are listed in pounds of seed per acre, cost per acre and appoximate nitrogen fixed and associated links to Welter Seed. One should always patronize your local seed source if possible but for some Welters may be your only choice.

Red Clover
Any red clover will work but Alta-Swede Mammoth Red Clover is the least expensive but yet most productive variety I am aware of. Sow at 10-15#'s per acre at an approximate cost of $20 an acre. Red Clover can be frost seeded but there is the risk of seeding failure due to the allelopathic chemicals in the brassicas.

The brassica plot can be tilled and oats and red clover planted together to provide a quick source of forage via the oats. Clip the oats off once the clover hets well started by early to mid June.

Red clover should fix 40-80#'s per acre over the length of a summer but up to 130 or more if allowed to grow a second year.

Alta-Swede Mammoth Red Clover - seed source

Berseem Clover

Berseem clover is an annual clover that is often called the king of green manure crops and cannot be frost seeded. It is fast growing and often added to clover seed mixes because it will rapidly provide forage while other clovers are becoming established.

Sow berseem at 10-20#'s per acre at roughly $38 an acre, add oats as with red clover and clip them off later. Berseem should fix upwards of #100 of N per acre but be sure to keep it clipped if it sarts to flower or N fixation will end.

Berseem can be up to 28% crude protien making it a great spring/summer food source

Berseem Clover - seed source

Crimson Clover

Crimson Clover is also an annual clover and frost seeding is not reccomended and like the aforementioned clovers oats can be added and clipped off or it can be planted alone at 20-30#'s per acre or roughly $32 an acre seeding costs.

Crimson is also high in protien and also will fix upwards of 100#'s of N by summers end.

Crimson Clover - seed source

Greenfix Chickling Vetch

Greenfix Chickling Vetch is a great option where deer have not eaten the brassicas and there is concern that the allelopathic chemical content is high because larger seeds such as with vetch will be unaffected. Greenfix Chickling Vetch is also a great option where one must follow brassicas with brassicas and the growing season is short.

Greenfix Chickling Vetch can fix between 80-200#'s of N in only 60-70 days!! Most clovers can come no where near that in 2 months!! This vetch can be upwards of 30% protein and produce 2000-5000#'s DM per acre.

Sow Chickling Vetch at 50-70#'s per acre at roughly $50 an acre seed cost but be sure to cover seeds 1-2" deep and drill if possible as seeds can chip when broadcast. A hand seeder with plastic spreader will lower seed chipping and fracturing also.

Greenfix Chickling Vetch

Other options include field peas, IC peas or buckwheat but the crops mentioned will provide the earliest forage to help hold deer on your property, build your soils and lower your fertilizer and herbicide inputs.

This is berseem and oats planted last spring and tilled under for a fall winter rye planting.

Image

There are lot's of choices to fit almost every landowners needs when following brassicas so there is no excuse for leaving a plot bare an unproductive all summer... ;)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Mon Feb 22, 2010 3:42 pm

It's late February and the snow keeps falling here in Iowa with no end in sight to the snow and cold weather so what do brassica plots look like now?

Remember the early fall strips plots where strips of brassicas (with a few volunteer oats) were alternated with strips of winter rye and peas?

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Well here is what they look like on 02/20/2010

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The snow churned and plowed by deer feeding on the turnips

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Scarcely an inch of snow untouched as they search out the tasty turnips

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Some landowners make the mistake of planting only forage rape and miss out on the late winter attraction that the turnips provide..

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It's a mistake you see to only attract deer during hunting season because our endeavor should be to attract and HOLD whitetails ALL year long.

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Turnips are an excellent way to help hold deer right on thru the winter

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and it's a simple matter to include them in your mid summer brassica planting!

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Brassicas are only a small piece of the habitat puzzle but can be a very important one for most landowners....

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This is the mix I plant but it is just for reference and one can come up with your own favorite combination

Dwarf Essex Rape Seed 1#
Purple Top Turnips 1#
Appin forage turnip 1#
Barkant Forage Turnip 1#
Barnapoli Rape Seed 1/2#
Pasja Hybrid Brassica 1/2#
GroundHog Forage Radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most midwest states

Till ground, cultipack or firm soil, broadcast 5#'s per acre of brassica seed and re-cultipack.

Do NOT mix other crops with brassicas!

Use 60-90#'s of actual nitrogen (150-200#'s of urea per acre)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:24 pm

One thing unique about planting short season brassicas (rape, turnips and forage radish) is that they can be planted in mid July to mid August at a time when we don't have to fight wet spring weather. This planting time frame also provides an opportunity to grow a legume during that time ahead of planting which in turn allows us to add soil humous and nitrogen. Clover then provides deer with a high quality food source rather then an empty plot.

Planting red clover with winter rye as the crop preceding the brassicas is one of the least expensive and most productive ways to accomplish this and the reason I encourage crop rotations between winter rye, peas, red clover and brassicas. That rotation builds soils, lowers the need for herbicides and fertilizers and when a plot is divided, these crops can provide the best of both every year.

Clovers should also be spring seeded into dead brassica plots rather then leaving it bare for the summer and preferably then rotated back to winter rye/peas and red clover.

I've discussed all of that previously of course and in the cereal grain threads I've shared information on how to get the most out of the legumes and that subject should be covered here as well.

70-85% of the nitrogen in a legume plant is in the leaves and plant itself, so while the roots do contain N, the upper part of the plant is the real "gold mine" so to speak. Killing the plant and leaving it on the soil surface allows most of the N to converted to ammonia and eventually lost to the atmosphere.

For that reason it's important to till the legume (such as clover or vetch) under as a whole plant and this is one time that plowing can be an effective way to fully trap all of the nutrients in the plants. Tilling or discing it under is the next best option although with smaller equipment landowners may need to mow the clover first and follow up quickly with tillage equipment.

It is also important NOT to allow the clover to flower and set seed as it will both stop fixing N and begin to dry out, losing the N contained in the plant itself. Inoculation of the seed at planting is also extremely important for best results, otherwise the clover or vetch will use the N in the soil and is likely to fix N less efficiently.

None of this has anything to do with brassicas themselves of course but as landowners go from a "plant stuff....shoot deer" way of thinking to a complete year around sustainable habitat program, they want to learn how to "fill in the blanks".

This link is very helpful in putting things into layman's terms to help landowners better understand the whole process.

Managing Cover Crops

Knowledge of crop rotation, cover crops and the need to provide year around food sources will also help you understand why landowners need to get away from old habits of planting a plot to one crop.

Once you try dividing your plots and planting separate crops in each one you begin to see the advantages almost immediately and even more positive results over time due to lowered fertilizer and herbicide inputs.

Image
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:33 pm

The following are just more links concerning the use of legumes as a source of nitrogen following or preceding brassicas (or crops like corn) and shows that clover (legumes) are just as beneficial in no-till situations as they are with tillage.

LEGUME COVER CROPS IN WISCONSIN

Is tillage required for timely legume decomposition and nitrogen release under Wisconsin conditions? Wisconsin research indicates that tillage is probably not necessary for promoting sufficient legume nitrogen mineralization when corn follows alfalfa sod. Current UWEX recommendations for alfalfa nitrogen credits are not affected system.

In this situation, where alfalfa plants are three to six years old, several hundred pounds of nitrogen are available for mineralization. Even if only a portion of it mineralizes, it would be sufficient to meet the entire nitrogen needs of corn. This would not be the case with most green manures, which typically contain 100 to 200 lb nitrogen per acre in their biomass. Most of this nitrogen must be mineralized to prevent nitrogen deficiency in corn. A delay in mineralization would also lead to deficiency.

Decomposition and nitrogen release occurs very rapidly when legume residues are soil incorporated. Work in Wisconsin has shown half of a legume’s nitrogen is released as plant-available nitrogen within four weeks of being soil incorporated by chisel plowing. Contrary to popular belief, this rapid N release is possible without burying all of the legume residue. Thus, complete residue burying by moldboard plowing is not necessary, so a mulch tillage system is acceptable if soil conditions permit it.
What about no-till? Research from the southeastern United States clearly shows that legume residues left on the soil surface release nitrogen more slowly than incorporated residues. Legume residues left on the soil surface are more subject to environmental changes (temperature and moisture fluctuations), which affects the decomposition process


Cover Crops and Legumes

The portion of green-manure nitrogen provided to a
following crop is usually about 50-60% of the total
amount contained in the legume.

Approximately 40% of the plant tissue nitrogen becomes available the firstyear following a chemically burned, no-till legume mulch.

Approximately 60% of the tissue nitrogen is
released when the cover crop is incorporated as a green
manure rather than left on the surface as a mulch.
Lesser amounts are available the next two growing seasons,but increased yields are apparent.


Nutrients from decaying plant material are more readily available for use by succeeding crop plants than those nutrients derived from soil minerals or particles. During decomposition of organic matter, carbonic and other organic acids are formed. These organic acids react with insoluble mineral rocks and phosphates precipitates, releasing phosphates and exchangeable nutrients


Cover Crops and Legumes

Crimson Clover Cover crop

Utilizing legumes for N supply can be sometimes confusing but one thing is certain...that the benefits are clear and using legumes in your brassica rotation to break the disease/pest cycle, build soils and furnish at all or a part of the crops N needs is just good managment....:)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:50 pm

On my farms there is not so much as a shred of evidence left that I ever planted brassicas but on a friends farm there are a number of "survivors"...

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The deep snow insulated them and hid them from deer

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Just another reason to til them up and plant clovers because these brassicas would mature and go to seed long before fall

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Volunteer brassicas can be very invasive like wild mustard and hard to get rid of but clover cover crops help eliminate that problem.... ;)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14 am

This pic from my brassica plot shows the string allelopathic affects of the brassicas...looks like a desert! :shock:

Image

Leaving a plot bare like this all summer would be not only foolish but shameful! Our soils are not meant to be left bare and unproductive so in my case I tilled the plots under and planted berseem and crimson annual clovers.

I always rotate my plots/crops so last years brassica plots will be planted to winter rye and peas this fall and last years rye will be planted to brassicas this year. Annual clovers will provide a source of nitrogen for the rye and add thousands of pounds of biomass (organic matter) to the soil when I kill it to plant rye in late August.

The rye plots already have red clover planted in them from last fall and the same process will occur when I till those under for brassicas in July.

Instead of a bare dead brassica patch I will soon have some lush annual clovers to feed deer all summer and then take advantage of some free nutrients and improved soil tilth when I work in this source of green manure... ;)
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Re: Brassicas

Postby dbltree on Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:48 pm

Annual clovers don't really have anything to do with brassicas but then again they have everything to do with them when used as a cover crop to follow brassicas in the spring. In my case these annual clovers will be tilled under for winter rye and peas this fall and that allows the clovers to provide a lush source of high protein forage all summer and then a source of nitrogen for the fall rye and forage radish plots.

Just for fun I planted Berseem clover

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and Crimson Clover

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along with chickling vetch

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I also frost seeded red clover into some spent brassicas to see how they compare and see if there is any noticibale difference in any of these annuals as far as deer usuage or plot performance of crops following these annual cover crops.

We have a "stump" problem in one old pasture converted to food plots and after continually tearing up my tiller we decided to start plowing it first to either pull up the 3-6" stumps or at least mark them.

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They have been there about 3-4 years now so many of them pulled up

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I tilled the plowed ground, cultipacked, broadcast the seed and re-cultipacked to cover
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Various seeding rates and seed source can be found here:

Annual Clovers

and here

Chickling Vetch info

I hope to encourage landowners to not have a one track mind and focus soely on one type of crop and worse yet only on a "kill" plot. Diversify your plantings to provide year around food sources, use annual cover crop species that will feed deer, improve soils and add free nitrogen to lower your costs.

Our whitetail/wildlife habitat should be like a spider web of crops, trees and native grasses that woven together provide all the intricate but essential components necessary to hold and harvest mature whitetails.

I'll be planting long season brassicas like swedes and kale very soon and exploring all the pros and cons of long seasons versus short season rape and turnips for those interested in that aspect of planting and growing brassicas for whitetails.... ;)
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